Despite only having one Australian stockist (although considering it’s not current season this may no longer be the case) I think many of our local readers will be familiar with the name Louise Amstrup. Her eponymous label was established several years ago (and now London is her base) but it’s definitely the last couple of seasons, particularly summer, that has seen her name covered extensively in digital press and mainstream media. Amstrup’s clothes are a constant play on opposites; tailoring over feminine silhouettes, silk and chiffons against neoprenes and marl jersey. It’s kind of strict and constructed meets soft and surreal.
Winter in many ways was a continuation of Louise’s summer collection, albeit with a darker and more rebellious vision. Inspired by dystopian French fantasy film The City of Lost Children, her silhouettes were at times repressive and controlled; skirts hugged the body tight, layers revealed new shapes and bare skin only when necessary. It was post apocalyptic neo-grunge and in many ways symbolic of the film’s underlying reflections on contemporary society.
Whereas summer was reflective and focused on the shoulder, this season Louise was interested in exaggerating and defining other, less agressive parts of the body. Sleeves were curved from the shoulder to elbow; hips were draped to give an unforgiving, yet fashionable shape. You can see the influence of London on her work. London designers push the envelope with digital prints and textile design. The use of print seems quite reserved in Danish fashion but Louise works and takes risks with dramatic prints like no other local designer.
* All images courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week.
