We’ve been getting all excited over the last couple of weeks with the summer shows in London, New York and Paris but now our attention is back on home ground with the new collection from Dhini.
Press have described Dhini as a genius in complicated and experimental tailoring, and we have been following Dhini since we featured her in our GENDER issue. Her collections are always contemporary with a nod to old world techniques so that an underlying masculine structure is given fragility and femininity with the drape and fall of fabric. Each season seems to continue and build upon the previous, and drape again dominates the silhouette. While it was exaggerated at the hips for summer, it’s focused on the shoulders for winter.
Dhini lets the construction of a garment speak for her work so it’s interesting to see the subtle use of geometric embellishments and cut-outs. Perhaps embellishment isn’t quite the word we’re looking for, considering there’s not a hint of sequin or beading or the gaudiness you often associate with the word. It’s quite cleverly worked into the range. And there’s always a standout colour to punctuate against the heavier tones and for winter it’s a beautiful, soft lilac. It’s quite surprising how well it works against navy but as always, it’s a very considered collection that is quintessentially and distinctly Dhini.
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