We stand corrected on our post of last week, with the new winter collection from geek chic menswear designers Mjölk.
Mjölk’s vision for the season searches upon on several ideas; ideas that lend an emotional, historical and literal thread through the collection. The starting point is Vinegar Hill, one of the forgotten neighbourhoods of New York’s Brooklyn borough. Originally settled by the Irish in the late 18th century, where an influx of European migrants lent the area a cosmopolitan lifestyle, it later became a haunting ground for folk artists and a beat generation of poets whose work inspired a cultural phenomenon.
You can see those elements of time, the movements of generations, in this collection. It’s like looking at a sartorial timeline. There’s a hint of rebellion that takes heart from the Irish, while the gentlemen-like formality of stiff collars and cinched waists eventually give way to chunky knits and chambray, symbolic of the end to the corporate-style conformity that characterised 60s fashion. When we last spoke of Mjölk’s summer collection it was about classic shapes and sharp edges. There’s still that element of dandy here, but it’s a little looser, less polished and ever-so-slightly more casual. It’s a mélange of contrasting textures, colours and cuts that still pays tribute to Mjölk’s sense of line, shape, and fit.
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