In stark contrast to New York, London Fashion Week livens up with print. The city’s embrace of technology has exploded with print. Digital, trompe l’oeil, optical, graphic. You name it, London shows it, always forging new directions for print in fashion. For London’s young designers the beauty, and power, of digital print is that only a computer and creative mind is required. On the back of Mary Katrantzou’s saturated, hyper-surreal show follows two more designers with a penchant for print mania.
Holly Fulton’s star has risen considerably quickly over the last twelve months. An ASOS collaboration coupled with an Emerging Talent Award, and she’s been wowing the crowd since her London debut. Known for a sort of chaotic simplicity, the designer has been channelling the 60s vibe since day dot, well before it became a major mark on the runway. Merging mod minishifts with art deco styling, Fulton brings a new perspective to the tired minimalist trend.
Holly has taken an ethnic turn with her prints. Taking a cross-continental trip, from Hollywood to the high plains of Africa, art deco clash with tribal motifs, cloud lines and skyscrapers. The collection was mainly motivated by a new colour range. One that’s bolder. Slick yellows and striking turquoise mixed with soft pastels. The silhouettes were predictable but, like Katrantzou, the designer is beginning to introduce new shapes, like the palazzo pants and skater skirts.
Jewellery is every bit as important to as Holly’s womenswear and the accessories again gained as much attention as the clothes. Swarovski jewels in oversized geometric shapes still kept with the aesthetic, in a Fulton-style distorted way.
Peter Pilotto has grown up. Always for the modern woman, this season they’ve pushed beyond the print boundaries they’re best known for and moved into a more mature form of dress. This collection was fresh.
Starting with a blank canvas of white in typical Pilotto style of structured, tailored pieces, the collection slowly started to reinterpret a 70s affection. Less hippy, more glamour, the garments were long and lean. Two-tone ribbed knitwear, polo-necked jumpers and leggings, and tubular jersey dresses came in combinations of blues or tangerine. And with soft details, like draped ties that delicately decorated the back, it created a sensual feel. A demure look of defiant independence.
Creating an illusion of texture with print, the duo again showed their genius at connecting patterns with the body. Getting the placement of patterns to integrate effortlessly into the shape of garments is something they’re getting better at every season.
To see the complete collections of Holly Fulton and Peter Pilotto visit Style.com
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