We were surprised recently by a quiet fashion revolution happening in New Zealand. It’s origins lie in the crusade led by Karen Walker and is currently being carried out by Salasai. There’s a new style to look forward to next time you’re shopping in New Zealand. After so many years of being tagged with a certain aesthetic, could the country really be trying to shake the quasi-industrial-androgynous tag? We say yes! And we’ve found another two labels to prove it. These designers are finding new ground with a new aesthetic. One that’s a little softer, prettier, and more romantic; a look where pieces are pared back to create a silhouette that is almost as simple as possible.
HOPETOWN
The Label:
Aria Campbell and Ruth Ellison are the names behind new fashion label HOPETOWN. They have a history together that precedes HOPETOWN; the duo worked as fashion assistants at High Society, a New Zealand-based fashion company that designs, manufactures and distributes its own stable of labels for the plus 35 age group. With over 40 years industry experience, it’s a commercially astute business, one that recognised the need for a new target audience. Mentored by Laurinda Sutcliffe, creative director of High Society, HOPETOWN is in a unique position for a young label. With an established management team and accessiblility to pattern makers and machinists, ideas aren’t affected by the limitations of economics, something that start-up fashion labels often struggle with. And while HOPETOWN still keeps with Society’s ready-to-wear aesthetic, its appeal is focused toward the young and fashion foward.
The Look:
For summer HOPETOWN pay homage to clothing’s primary function: protection. Styles are balanced between hard and soft, masculine and feminine, to form a shell for the body. Sharp leather panels appear as shields on the leggings; skirts and dresses wrap and drape like bandages, while unexpected folds and pinholes add texture and detail. It’s practical, but modern; the wearability no doubt is fashioned from being part of a large fashion company. But unlike a commercial brand, there’s little consideration to current trends. Rather, HOPETOWN is concerned with creating an ease of dress that is both versatile and timeless, designed to be worn like a second skin.
Blak
The Label:
Another newcomer, Blak is the creation of Teresa Hodge. Spurred to design her own label following the birth of her child, Hodge has a ton of credibility and design experience coming into this new venture. Having spent years working as head designer for Moochi, a boutique label of sorts that caters to everyday ease and cool, Hodge is well versed in creating pieces that will sell. Originally established as a range of BASICS, of loose and layered pieces (staple), the label has expanded in a few short years to include a LUXE range (statement).
The Look:
Blak is all about street edge and tends to share a similarity of style with HOPETOWN: practicality with a twist, and a split personality of tailored and pretty fashion pieces. Gathers, frills and easy fit swing tee dresses sit alongside masculine shirt dresses, cropped jackets and cardigans, to add structure. Don’t let the name fool you though. While black is a key colour of the collection, it’s not a defining one. Brazen pinks are embraced with monochrome print and sugar coated shades of pastels. It’s got a feeling of purpose and poise, and a little touch of sweet sophistication.
